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 © Copyright Andrej Ross, 1997
 Email: andreyr@netvision.net.il
 Date: 20 Oct 1998
 Poka otsutstvuyut fotografii - oni budut vylozheny cherez neskol'ko dnej.
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                                             ili
      o  tom kak  ne  popast'  na  "polunochnyj ekspress"
 
 

                                            Sinajskij poluostrov

                                                                    Poluostrov v severnom Egipte, zanimayushchij
                                                             ploshchad' 61kv.km. Naselenie  okolo 200000 tys.
                                                             chelovek, v osnovnom, beduinov. V severnoj chasti
                                                             predstavlyaet soboj uzkuyu pribrezhnuyu polosu s
                                                             peschanymi  dyunami. V central'noj chasti - gornyj
                                                             massiv. Poluostrov izrezan prirodnymi ushchel'yami
                                                             i vysushennymi kanalami, perepolnyaemymi v
                                                             sezon dozhdej. Klimat goryachij i suhoj.
                                                                   Bol'shinstvo naseleniya prozhivaet na
                                                             poberezh'e. |konomicheskaya aktivnost' ogranichena
                                                             i   svoditsya k gornym razrabotkam, rybolovstvu i
                                                             turizmu.
                                                                   Soglasno biblejskoj istorii - Sinaj mesto
                                                             sorokaletnego skitaniya evrejskogo naroda posle
                                                             vyhoda iz Egipta. Zdes' zhe, soglasno Tore, na gore
                                                             Sinaj Moisej poluchil desyat' zapovedej.
                                                                    V territorial'nom plane poluostrov igraet
                                                             rol' mosta mezhdu Afrikoj i Aziej i, v tozhe vremya,
                                                             yavlyaetsya bufernoj zonoj mezhdu ne vrazhduyushchimi v
                                                             nastoyashchee vremya stranami.
                                                                    Na protyazhenie vekov Sinajskij poluostrov 50
                                                             raz perehodil ot odnoj imperii k drugoj,
                                                             zahvatyvalsya assirijcami,  persami, grekami,
                                                             arabami, turkami i dr.
                                                                     S otkrytiem Sueckogo kanala v 1869 godu
                                                             Sinaj priobretaet sushchestvennoe mezhdunarodnoe
                                                             znachenie. Anglichane okkupiruyut Egipet v 1882
                                                             godu, preimushchestvenno iz-za svoih interesov v
                                                             otnoshenii Sueckogo   kanala. Posle Vtoroj
                                                             Mirovoj Vojny otnosheniya mezhdu musul'manskim
                                                             mirom i tol'ko chto obrazovannym evrejskim
                                                             gosudarstvom (1948) obostryayutsya. Poluostrov
                                                             popadaet v zonu konflikta mezhdu Egiptom i
                                                             Izrailem. Konflikt razreshaetsya v hode
                                                             SHestidnevnoj vojny 1967 goda, kogda Egipet,
                                                             Iordaniya i Siriya nachinayut neozhidannuyu
                                                             intervenciyu na gosudarstvo Izrail'. V hode
                                                             voennyh dejstvij izrail'skoj armii udaetsya ne
                                                             tol'ko preodolet'  nastuplenie  so storony
                                                             Sinajskogo poluostrova, no i otbrosit'
                                                             egipetskie vojska   do Sueckogo kanala, sozdav na
                                                             severe poluostrova zonu kontroliruemoj
                                                             territorii dlya predotvrashcheniya agressii
                                                             podobnogo roda v budushchem.
                                                                     V vos'midesyatye gody vsledstvie dlitel'nyh
                                                             peregovorov s uchastiem OON zaklyuchen dogovor o
                                                             mire s Egiptom (1979). Izrail'skie vojska
                                                             vyvodyatsya s territorii  poluostrova  (1982)  i
                                                             pogranichnogo goroda Taba (1989), a poluostrov
                                                             poluchaet status demilitarizovannoj zony
                                                             otkrytoj dlya turizma.
                                                                     V poslednie gody tempy turisticheskoj
                                                             industrii stol' vysoki, chto znachitel'naya chast'
                                                             dostupnogo poberezh'ya Krasnogo morya - eto
                                                             nepreryvnye gostinichnye kompleksy samogo
                                                             vysokogo urovnya so  sravnitel'no nizkimi cenami.
                                                             Turistov so vsego sveta privlekaet klimat, chudesa
                                                             Krasnogo morya, ekzoticheskoe perepletenie
                                                             civilizacii i srednevekov'ya.


         Nado skazat', chto ideya s samogo nachala byla avantyurnoj, no dlya cheloveka, ustavshego ot neskol'kih let nepreryvnoj raboty, eto byl edinstvennyj shans, bez osobyh zatrat i podgotovki smenit' obstanovku. V obshchej slozhnosti, ot poyavleniya idei poezdki do okonchaniya sborov proshlo  dvadcat' chetyre chasa,  v osnovnom  potrachennyh na zakupku razlichnyh banochek dlya rebenka. Teper' sleduet ob座asnit', pochemu ona kazalas' avantyurnoj. My reshili ehat' v Egipet na svoej mashine, v seredine avgusta mesyaca i s rebenkom polutoragodovalogo vozrasta. Poezdka by vryad li sostoyalas', nachni my sovetovat'sya i vyyasnyat' podrobnosti, poetomu, krome rekomendacij, chto "nado mnogo pit'" osobennyh svedenij u nas ne bylo. S bol'shim trudom byla najdena karta Sinajskogo poluostrova (ne pol'zuetsya sprosom) s kratkim opisaniem naibolee populyarnyh mest. CHtoby poluchit' hot' nemnogo informacii my zashli v neskol'ko turagenstv, no nikto iz nih s Egiptom ne rabotal, ob座asnyaya eto zharoj i politicheskoj obstanovkoj. Neskol'ko uspokaivali slova tovarishcha po rabote, chto "tam" vse govoryat na ivrite i mozhno platit'  shekelyami (eto ego vospominaniya 17 - letnej davnosti).
 
         Hajfa - Ashdod - Bersheva - Dimona. Polovinu puti rebenok spit, a ostal'noe vremya otkryvaet dveri, okna, hvataet rul', tashchit mamu za volosy, oret i voobshche s trudom oshchushchaet sebya na odnom metre zhiloj ploshchadi. Ne doehav 40 km. do |jlata, ostanavlivaemsya v Jotveta. |tom kibuce -- oazise v centre pustyni s  bassejnom  dlya vzroslyh i detej, uhozhennoj zelenoj  travoj, kreslami  i polnym pokoem. Dlya lyubitelej  na etoj zhe territorii - restoran. Vse vyglyadit ochen' pristojno. Mezhdu kibucem i zapravkoj ogromnaya detskaya ploshchadka s mnogochislennymi derevyannymi postrojkami:  domikami, gorkami, kachelyami i pr. Rebenok v polnom vostorge ot vnezapno poyavivshejsya svobody  i takogo kolichestva razvlechenij. Vnutri izbushki "na kur'ih nozhkah" stavim palatku i na kostre gotovim uzhin, zapivaya ego pripasennym pivom, takim obrazom, prazdnuya pervyj den' puteshestviya.
         Utro sleduyushchego dnya nachinaetsya v shest' pyatnadcat' i, izryadno potoptannye rebenkom, kotoryj nastojchivo pytalsya najti vyhod iz palatki, vstaem i my. Nedaleko ot restorana nahoditsya kran, posluzhivshij nam neogranichennym istochnikom vody dlya umyvanij i kupanij. Vodu dlya pit'ya mozhno vzyat' na zapravke. Posle  prigotovlennogo na primuse zavtraka vyezzhaem. V |jlate, radi lyubopytstva, interesuemsya cenoj nochi v primitivnom kempinge. Ne proyaviv  nikakogo interesa k svoim potencial'nym klientam  i  dazhe s nekotoroj dolej prenebrezheniya nam soobshchayut  cenu - 120 shek. za den'.
         Nasha granica. S nashej storony granicy osobyh trudnostej net. No nado byt' gotovym k nalogu v 54 shek. s cheloveka (rebenok mladshe dvuh let ne v schet),  obmenu voditel'skih prav na mezhdunarodnye    (maksimum  50 shek. s cheloveka)  i  sdache sotovogo telefona  na hranenie za devyat' shek. v den', t.k. ispol'zovanie ego v Egipte zapreshcheno (ne stoit rasstraivat'sya lyubitelyam poboltat'  po telefonu, opyt pokazal, chto svyazi net.  Sushchestvuyut eshche predlozheniya o razlichnyh vidah strahovaniya mashiny  i   zdorov'ya, no stoit eto otnositel'no dorogo. V okoshke obmena prav na mashinu sovershenno "otmorozhennaya " chinovnica  dolgo ne mogla vzyat'  v tolk,  chto my ot nee hotim.  Mozhno podumat', k nej obrashchayutsya po drugim voprosam.  V sosednem okne menyayut shekeli na paundy - egipetskie den'gi. Obmen beznalogovyj, kurs ~ 1: 1.1. My pomenyali 500 shekelej, pamyatuya, chto " shekeli prinimayut svobodno". Na pasportnom kontrole iz vsej sem'i prisutstvoval v nalichii tol'ko ya odin, t.k. zhena otsutstvovala po tehnicheskim prichinam, a rebenok v drugom uglu zdaniya s peremennym uspehom valil pal'mu. Problem eto ne vyzvalo.
 
 

                                      Vizovyj kontrol'

                                                                     Dlya v容zda puteshestvennikov cherez granicu v
                                                              |jlate viza ne trebuetsya, odnako,  v容zd v  rajone
                                                              Sueckogo  kanala trebuet  egipetskoj vizy.
                                                              Tamozhennyj  sbor okolo 20  dollarov SSHA. Viza
                                                              dejstvitel'na   3 mesyaca.

         Ih granica. CHto srazu udivlyaet tak eto to, chto nikto ne znaet  i  ne govorit na ivrite. Pri plohom znanii anglijskogo ili otsutstviya navykov  razgovornoj rechi voznikayut kolossal'nye problemy.  Po privychke  proiznosish'  frazu  eshche  i na  ivrite, no eto absolyutno  lishnee   i ne  pomogaet. Prohodim pasportnyj kontrol', vyhodim iz zdaniya, sadimsya v mashinu  i  dazhe minuem eshche odin post s proverkoj pasportov. A vot na sleduyushchem postu posle ochen' dlitel'nogo ob座asneniya  vyyasnyaetsya, chto my ne proshli tamozhnyu. Na predydushchem postu dolgo ob座asnyaem, pochemu my uzhe vozvrashchaemsya. Taki, nahodim, gde tamozhnya. Udivitel'no, kak my ee minovali. Nado otmetit', chto masshtaby postroek ne te, vse zdaniya -  soedinennye  v ryad vagonchiki, razumeetsya, bez kakih-libo vyvesok. Sprosit' nekogo, lyudej vokrug net. Tamozhennyj dosmotr znachitel'no ser'eznej, chem ozhidalos'. Vse sumki poshli na obluchenie. Iz mashiny byla vynuta zapaska, podnyat kapot, ne spesha i professional'no  prosmotreno dnishche, siden'ya i t.d. Posle etogo byl vydan klochok bumagi s neskol'kimi slovami arabskogo teksta. Zagruzhaem mashinu i  snova ot容zzhaem, minuem znakomyj post s povtornoj proverkoj pasportov, snova pod容zzhaem  ko  vtoromu  shlagbaumu (eto v 500 metrah ot zdaniya  pasportnogo kontrolya). Nas ne puskayut. Opyat' prodolzhitel'nye dvuhstoronnie vyyasneniya.  Po znakomoj doroge vozvrashchaemsya dlya polucheniya arabskih nomernyh znakov.  Vstrechayut kak rodnyh, lish' interesuyutsya,  za kakim delom na etot raz.  Poluchenie nomerov - otdel'naya istoriya, gde  obhodish' posledovatel'no  chetyreh  chinovnikov, kazhdomu iz nih platish' den'gi, potom dolgo ishchesh' klochok bumagi, poluchennyj na tamozhne, platish' eshche raz i  poluchaesh' dva znaka v sostoyanii  konservnoj banki  dolgo valyavshejsya na doroge, no odin s remeshkom - eto na bamper, a vtoroj bez - eto za zadnee steklo. Obshchaya summa deneg ostavlennaya zdes' - okolo 180 shekelej. No smeh ne v etom, a v tom, chto posle togo, kak vse bylo polucheno i povesheno, den'gi zaplacheny  i  vykurena sigareta za okonchanie etoj nervotrepki, nashu mashinu ne udaetsya zavesti. Hoteli uzhe vozvrashchat'sya v |jlat. Zaveli s tolkacha. Na poslednem postu s nas vzyali eshche 37 paundov  za chto, razumeetsya, neizvestno, no posle etogo my smogli nakonec-to vyehat' za predely pust' slaboj,  no ochen' alchnoj    vlasti, a kak potom vyyasnilos' i za predely civilizacii. Itog - tri chasa  begotni pri zhare pod 50 gradusov, poteryannye den'gi, izmuchennaya neopredelennost'yu supruga i  obessilennyj rebenok.
        Taba - Nuvejba - Dagab  - SHarem |l' SHejh.  Srazu posle |jlata gorod Taba. On izvesten  iz-za kogda-to izrail'skoj gostinicy Hilton. Sejchas izrail'tyane perehodyat granicu, chtoby provesti vecher za zelenym  stolom. Po razgovoram ceny v poltora-dva raza nizhe. Dalee okolo 70 km. do Nuvejby.  Doroga vse vremya idet po pribrezhnoj polose, ochen' krasivo i vsegda mozhno svernut' k moryu v odin iz mnogochislennyh kempingov. Est' dva vida podobnyh kempingov. Odin predstavlyaet soboj kompleksy komnat s dushem, kondicionerom ili bez nih,  a  vtoroj - eto bungala iz trostnika. Cena komnaty poryadka 20-50 shekelej v sutki. Bungalo stoit 10 shek. s cheloveka. Kak pravilo, prisutstvuet i  restoranchik, gde mozhno deshevo i vkusno poest'. Na nash vzglyad, bol'shinstvo uvidennyh turistov obitalo v bungalah. My poprobovali i to i drugoe,  no  na obratnom puti prozhili neskol'ko dnej na beregu  v bungalah, pol'stivshis'  na nevysokuyu cenu, polnuyu nezavisimost' i  blizost' k prirode.
 

 
 
                                                Nuweiba

                                                                     Policiya - v centre goroda okolo gostinicy.
                                                              Zapravochnaya stanciya i garazh. Avtobusnaya stanciya
                                                              rabotaet s utra do polunochi. Vozmozhny avtobusy i
                                                              taksi v lyubom napravlenii, vklyuchaya Kair.
                                                              Torgovaya zona - tovary pervoj neobhodimosti,
                                                              produkty, ovoshchnoj rynok.  Pochta, telegraf,
                                                              telefon. Medicinskij centr - pervaya pomoshch',
                                                              lechenie i rentgen. Vrachebnaya pomoshch' v24 chasa v
                                                              sutki, plata za medobsluzhivanie po kursu. V 1
                                                              kilometre ot goroda - port.

        Nuvejba. Interes predstavlyaet poberezh'e. Mnogo raznogo roda stoyanok pod otkrytym nebom, est' i kempingi, nekotorye ves'ma original'nye. V mestnom supermarkete mozhno kupit' ovoshchi. Ceny raza v dva nizhe izrail'skih. Zona otdyha turistov nahoditsya v storone ot zhiloj chasti goroda.  Proezzhaya po zhilym kvartalam vpadaesh' v trans ot uvidennyh uslovij zhizni naseleniya. Gryaz' so vseh storon, ziyayushchie proσy broshennyh zdanij,  shatayushchiesya i zaglyadyvayushchie v okna verblyudy. S udivleniem zamechaesh', chto sarai yavlyayutsya mestom obitaniya lyudej, no etih lyudej nado videt'...  Porazmysliv, prishli k vyvodu, chto vo vsem vinovata zhara. Porabotaj, kogda v teni pod 50. Tak postepenno i otuchaesh'sya,  chto-libo delat', sebya nosish' s trudom, predpochitaesh' lezhat'.
 Posle Nuvejby shosse  uhodit v gory i ostaetsya lyubovat'sya tol'ko gornymi vershinami i cvetom kamnej. Doroga horoshaya, no mestami opasnaya iz-za opolznej, kazhetsya, za etim sledyat i ubirayut kamni regulyarno.
 

                                      Gora Sinaj, monastyr' Santa Katarina

                                                                     Po puti iz Nuvejby v Dagab prihoditsya
                                                             peresekat' pogranichnyj post, ot kotorogo doroga
                                                             uhodit na zapad  v gory. Dolgij i neprostoj
                                                             pod容m privodit v mesto izvestnoe kak   "Sinai
                                                             Peak"  ili        "High Mountain".  Vnezapno
                                                             voznikshaya  kamennaya  stena - eto monastyr' Saint
                                                             Catherine's, raspolozhennyj na vysote 2000 metrov.
                                                             Mestoraspolozhenie monastyrya i okruzhayushchaya
                                                             priroda unikal'ny. Zimoj on pokryt snegom, a
                                                             vesnoj i osen'yu malodostupen iz-za gornyh
                                                             potokov prevrashchayushchihsya vo vremya tayaniya snegov v
                                                             burnye reki. Nailuchshee vremya poseshcheniya s Marta
                                                             po Oktyabr'. Ves' rajon kontroliruetsya dvumya
                                                             beduinskimi plemenami Gibaliyah  i  Aulad-Said.
                                                             CHleny plemeni yavlyayutsya gidami i provodnikami
                                                             pri progulkah i  ekskursiyah na verblyudah.  Istoriya
                                                             monastyrya uhodit kornyami v glubinu stoletij,
                                                             yavlyayas', po suti dela, odnoj iz vetvej istorii
                                                             chelovechestva. V samom monastyre bogatejshaya
                                                             kollekciya ikon 17 veka  i  manuskriptov. Okolo
                                                             monastyrya suvenirnye magaziny, pochta, stoyanka
                                                             dlya mashin i centr pervoj medicinskoj pomoshchi.
 

                                                Dahab

                                                                     Razvlecheniya - mnogochislennye rybnye
                                                             restorany, picerii. Paby, raznoobraznye
                                                             kempingi i gostinicy. Progulki na verblyudah,
                                                             loshadyah, ekskursii na dzhipah, kluby podvodnogo
                                                             plavaniya. Policiya i turisticheskaya policiya.
                                                             Zapravochnaya stanciya i garazh. Neskol'ko bankov v
                                                             centre goroda. Taksi i avtobus v lyubuyu tochku.
                                                             Magazin, rynok, bazar.

 
        Dagab.  Gorod malen'kij, s tyl'noj storony ochen' gryaznyj (eto cherta lyubogo mesta), no central'naya ulica i, osobenno noch'yu - potryasayushchee zrelishche. Cvetnye lampochki na kazhdoj pal'me, muzyka, pribrezhnye  restoranchiki, shum priboya i,  osobenno, turisty so vsego mira delayut ego nepovtorimym. Ceny nevysokie. Poseshchenie restorana s zakazom kuricy i akul'ego stejka oboshlos' nam v 40 paundov. Neveroyatnoe kolichestvo samyh raznoobraznyh kempingov i komnat dlya nochlega. Zdes' mozhno  pozvonit', pomenyat' v magazine den'gi (shekeli i dollary na paundy), kupit' produkty i vodu, za pyat' dnej projti  kurs podvodnogo plavaniya i poluchit' razreshenie na pogruzhenie s akvalangom, pokatat'sya na verblyudah ili otpravit'sya v puteshestvie po goram. My proveli  zdes' s bol'shim udovol'stviem den' po doroge tuda i dva dnya po doroge obratno.
 

                                       Sharm City

                                                                     Policejskoe upravlenie v centre verhnego
                                                             goroda. Garazh. Remontnye masterskie. Avtobusnaya
                                                             stanciya s napravleniyami na Sinaj i Egipet.
                                                             Torgovaya zona. Pochta. Telefon. Centry podvodnogo
                                                             plavaniya. Medicinskij centr - edinstvennyj na
                                                             Sinajskom poluostrove medicinskij centr,
                                                             oborudovannyj barokameroj  i sposobnyj  okazat'
                                                             ekstrennuyu medicinskuyu pomoshch' postradavshim
                                                             vsledstvie pogruzheniya pod vodu. "Note: Get
                                                             immediate first aid at this location. Do not postpone it
                                                             to  Eilat"

 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
        SHarem |l' SHejh.  Drugoj uroven'. Uhozhennaya chast' napominaet |jlat. Odnako, za isklyucheniem gorodskogo plyazha, vse poberezh'e grandioznaya strojka, pod容hat' k moryu nevozmozhno na protyazhenii neskol'kih kilometrov. Esli nikuda ne svorachivat' do okonchaniya goroda, to popadaesh' na ogromnyj otvesnyj bereg s lazurnym morem vnizu. Po trope mozhno spustit'sya vniz k plyazhu. Korallovyj rif nachinaetsya v 20 metrah ot berega. Mnogo akvalangistov. Gostinicy i kempingi dostatochno dorogie. Za odnu noch' v kempinge  my zaplatili 60 shekelej. Zdes' mozhno zapravit' mashinu normal'nym benzinom, hotya kakoj eto benzin vyyasnit' ne udalos'. U nego odno opredelenie - vysokooktanovyj. Cena 1 litra - 1 paund.


        |to kratkoe opisanie puteshestviya i nashih  vpechatlenij. K schast'yu ili, k sozhaleniyu, my stolknulis' s neskol'kimi lyud'mi, popavshimi  v slozhnye i dazhe dramaticheskie situacii, znakomstvo s kotorymi mozhet  pomoch' drugim puteshestvennikam etogo izbezhat'.

         Nedaleko ot Nuvejby nam vstretilsya molodoj paren' iz centra strany, u kotorogo "poletela" avtomaticheskaya korobka peredach. Takuyu mashinu nel'zya prosto zacepit' i ottashchit'. Trebuetsya special'naya platforma  dlya podnyatiya perednih koles. Ostaviv mashinu na doroge, on avtostopom dobralsya do goroda v nadezhde po telefonu svyazat'sya so strahovoj kompaniej. Kupit' kartochku i najti telefon okazalos' bol'shoj problemoj, no osnovnoj udar - eto otkaz strahovoj kompanii emu v chem - libo pomoch'. Vecherom etogo dnya on prihodit v gorodskuyu policiyu v nadezhde najti pomoshch' i obespechit' ohranu mashiny.  Stoyashchee v centre goroda zdanie policii  zasluzhivaet otdel'nogo opisaniya.  Esli licevaya storona zdaniya bolee-menee chistaya, to ostal'naya territoriya vokrug nego - eto minnoe pole vysokoj plotnosti iz staryh i sovsem svezhih chelovecheskih fekalij.  Vozmozhno, eto posil'nyj protest mestnogo naseleniya protiv vlasti, no skoree, prosto othozhee mesto rabotnikov etoj zhe policii. V samom zdanii net i, vidimo, nikogda ne bylo vody, tualety prevratilis' v othozhie yamy. Govorit' o tom, chto vnutri zdaniya byla uborka, to zhe ne prihoditsya.  V holle sidit policejskij, oficer - arab let 50  tol'ko s  tremya, da i to  gnilymi zubami i  kosym pravym glazom. Pozzhe vyyasnyaetsya, chto v ego rukah  rassledovanie, vynesenie prigovora i privedenie ego  v  ispolnenie. Vse, chto on delaet, delaetsya ochen' nespeshno, s  chuvstvom sobstvennogo dostoinstva. Proshlo dva chasa, poka on soizvolil udelit' nam minutu vnimaniya. Posle chego snova vernulsya k svoim "vazhnym" delam i na nas uzhe nikak ne reagiroval. Delaj, chto hochesh' i, chto mozhesh'. Tak ni s chem my ottuda i uehali. Noch'yu my vstretili etogo parnya na granice, on vozvrashchalsya v Izrail' s cel'yu najti noch'yu tyagach  i na sleduyushchij den' vernut'sya v Egipet. Ne dumayu, chto eto puteshestvie emu deshevo oboshlos'.

        Vtoraya istoriya  bolee dramatichna. Ben Lulu |liyagu iz Afuly, priezzhaet s dvumya det'mi i suprugoj provesti neskol'ko dnej na beregu Krasnogo morya.  V bagazhnike ego mashiny egipetskaya policiya nahodit pustoj magazin ot avtomaticheskoj vintovki, prinadlezhavshchij zakonchivshemu dva goda nazad armiyu bratu. Dlya teh, kto ne znaet poyasnyu, chto eto metallicheskaya korobka s pruzhinoj vnutri razmerom 12 na 8 santimetrov, kotoruyu mozhno prisposobit' v luchshem sluchae pod  suvenir. Srazu za nahodkoj posledoval arest, naruchniki i, pod konvoem dvuh soldat, on byl pereveden v blizhajshuyu  policiyu, v KPZ,  odnim slovom. Otsyuda nachinaetsya set' doprosov  i  beskonechnyh ozhidanij v polnoj neizvestnosti  togo, chto proishodit. Kazhdyj chinovnik zanovo prepisyvaet bumagi, uzhe nikto tebya ni o chem ne sprashivaet, na tvoi voprosy  otvet odin - ty dolzhen ehat' v |tur k sud'e. |tur - eto kilometrov 200 ot SHarema v storonu Kaira.  Blizhe k vecheru nash znakomyj bez dokumentov, ugovoriv voditelya  taksi  ( drugogo transporta net ), edet  v |tur. Razumeetsya, vecherom i noch'yu ego nikto ne prinimaet, nikto takzhe ne mozhet skazat', kogda ego primut  i  primut li voobshche. On popadaet k sud'e lish' vecherom sleduyushchego dnya. Snova dolgoe ozhidanie i vot - prigovor - shtraf v 300 paundov. Teper' on  dolzhen ehat'  v Nuvejbu,  v oblastnuyu policiyu. Tam my  vstretilis'  i  prozhdali do 11 chasov nochi poka s nim zakonchat.  V policii  u nego vzyali otpechatki pal'cev ( mazhut ruki chernoj maslyannoj kraskoj, vymyt' i vyteret' ih nechem, snimayut otpechatki,  i v takom vide ty potom prodolzhaesh' vse procedury ), opyat' doprosili po povodu provoza cherez granicu oruzhiya, dolgoe vremya zapisyvali v tolstye tetradi kakie-to rasskazy i glubokoj noch'yu otpustili s usloviem, chto on sejchas zhe edet v Tabu. Na samoj granice eshche chas proveryayutsya dokumenty, sobirayutsya kakie-to bumazhki i lish' potom, v soprovozhdenii mestnogo GB-shnika, ego kak v fil'mah peredayut izrail'skim vlastyam. V itoge, tri dnya nasil'stvennogo puteshestviya, emu oboshlis' v pochti 2000 tys. shekelej ( taksi 1500 shek,  shtraf 300, melkie vzyatki 200 shek ) i nevynosimye stradaniya iz-za bespomoshchnosti i neizvestnosti svoej sud'by.
        Tret'ya istoriya analogichna predydushchej, tol'ko povodom dlya aresta i posleduyushchih ispytanij posluzhil kusok koralla. Znachitel'no pozzhe, my obratili vnimanie, chto na vseh kartah Sinajskogo poluostrova i  pamyatkah dlya vyezzhayushchih v Egipet est' takaya snoska: " Do not collect, take or  damage any item in the Area.(Corals, shells,  plants,  fossils  and  the  like)".  Ne  vsegda  informaciya  postupaet  v nuzhnoe vremya.
        A  chetvertaya istoriya  proizoshla neskol'ko let nazad s moim kollegoj po rabote arabom hristianinom. On s turisticheskoj gruppoj na avtobuse presekal egipetskuyu granicu v rajone Gazy. Proveryayushchij avtobus chinovnik,  poprosil pokazat' den'gi, kotorye on vvozit. Tot bez vsyakogo opaseniya dal emu neskol'ko stodollarovyh banknot. CHinovnik uhodit, a cherez neskol'ko minut ego zovut na vyhod s veshchami. Nichego ne podozrevayushchij, on vyhodit i tut zhe popadaet pod opeku soldata. Ego provodyat v komnatu i nachinayut zapolnyat' bumagi. Kto ty? CHto  ty?  i t.d. CHerez kogo-to on uznaet, chto emu "sh'etsya"  delo o provoze fal'shivyh  deneg, tak kak odna iz ego stodollarovyh banknot  fal'shivaya  (den'gi obmenyany v izrail'skom banke nakanune ot容zda). |tot chelovek provel v razlichnyh tyur'mah Egipta 3 mesyaca. Po ego slovam, fil'm "polunochnyj ekspress " lish' otdel'naya kartinka togo, chto tam proishodit.  Po vsej vidimosti,  on i eshche neskol'ko izrail'tyan, byli vypushcheny na svobodu  blagodarya vmeshatel'stvu amerikanskogo diplomaticheskogo korpusa. Roditeli etogo cheloveka, dostatochno vliyatel'nye lyudi, obratilis' k  svoemu drugu chlenu kneseta, a tot, v svoyu ochered', vyshel na amerikanskogo diplomata. YA namerenno opuskayu podrobnosti etogo plena, potomu, chto ya ih sam ne videl, a Vy so vtoryh ust prosto ne smozhete v eto   poverit'. Odnako,  esli eta tema kogo-nibud' zainteresuet, mogu rasskazat'.

        V zaklyuchenii hochu skazat', chto, bezuslovno, interesno posetit' Sinajskoe poberezh'e, uvidet' svoimi glazami vse prelesti podvodnogo mira, posmotret', kak zhivet okruzhayushchee naselenie. Nado tol'ko ochen' real'no ocenivat' tot risk i te opasnosti, kotoryj nas podsteregayut v samyh obychnyh situaciyah.  Absolyutno drugie vzglyady na chelovecheskuyu zhizn', absolyutno otlichnaya  mental'nost', drugie pravila povedeniya, tonkosti razgovora, pogolovnoe vzyatochnichestvo i lozh', polnaya otorvannost' ot civilizacii, gryaz' i tropicheskie bolezni - vot daleko ne polnyj perechen' osobennostej etogo mira.   Esli zhe vse-taki   proizoshlo neschast'e - nadeyat'sya mozhno tol'ko na svoi sily i svoe terpenie.

 Andrej  Ross,  Hajfa, 1997 god, sentyabr'
 E-Mail       a_ross@rambam.health.gov.il
                    andreyr@netvision.net.il
 
 


Last-modified: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:29:31 GMT
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